Last year my boyfriend and I went on a one-day boat trip to Elba and we fell in love with its beaches and crystal clear water so when we had to decide where this year’s summer holidays would take us we could not think of a more suitable travel destination than this fish-shaped island:
HOW TO GET THERE: by boat from Piombino or Livorno (but it is also possible to go by plane, landing in La Pila )
We personally booked our tickets with the ferry company Toremar
MOVE AROUND THE ISLAND by car
We came by car because renting a car or scooter for a week does cost. If you don’t have the possibility to come with your own car make sure to set aside some budget for this. Even if there are buslines bare in mind that they are not frequent so a car/scooter could be quite useful.
WHERE TO STAY: Capoliveri
I strongly recommed Capoliveri because it is very well positioned and though crowded by tourists during the summer the prices in most of the restaurants and bars are lower than in the cities by the sea.
Accommodation: Airbnb
Going to Elba in August is all but cheap so if you have the chance to go in June or September you will save money and also have more space on the many beautiful beaches this island has to offer.
To save some money and have the opportunity to get insights from locals (as in from our host) we booked a room using Airbnb.
WHERE TO EAT:
Here we spent our first evening in Capoliveri. Good food, very friendly maitre and rather large portions for a small price. I, personally, much enjoyed the risotto nero di seppia: it might not look very tasteful but once you taste it you will understand what I mean.
We had a hard time getting into this place: you have to book days in advance and in order to have space on the roof terrace with a breathtaking view on the bay even up to a week in advance BUT it is an absolute must if you come to Capoliveri and I can reassure you you will not regret it. Prepare yourself to meet the most chatty and comic waiter in history… but no joke he knows his stuff: he explains you every dish on the menu which changes according to what catches of that very day, bought from local fishermen and prepared in a most original colourful and most importantly delicous dishes which talk for themselves:
If you like to eat various small dishes, tapas-style, you are going to like this place. Make sure you come in time because the number of tables are limited, which we didn’t know but they were so nice to create a table ex nuovo. Very romantic atmosphere!
The perfect spot for a typical Tuscan aperitive, a “tagliere” with local cheeses and cold cuts accompanied by a wine of your choice. Very friendly personnel and great quality for a small price!
and where NOT to eat:
This pastery shop is very well known in Capoliveri for the great view from its terrace but, as far as I am concerned, not so much for its great service. I was quite disappointed by the pasteries which they told me to be amongst of the best of the isle: they cost double, didn’t have much taste and were served by a rather rude waitress.
When I travel I do not only want to see the area but taste it. Ischia might be an island and known for its fish dishes yet another very typical main dish is Coniglio all’Ischitana. I ate this oven cooked rabbit, served with a tomato-wine sauce with hits of rosemary and parsley, accompanied by just the right amount of tasty bread to “fare la scarpetta” (which is an Italian expression used to refer to the fact that you use your bread to clean your plate from any traces of food/sauce). A real must for the culinary traveller!
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