Elba, sand me all your love!

The island of Elba is a true paradise for beach lovers and every one of its beaches is different: from the typical lido’s with sunbeds and umbrellas to more natural beaches that only the locals know how to reach,

from rocky to sandy beaches… but not necessarily sandy “white” ones.

Heading from Rio Marina to Cavo, you pass by two very particular beaches:

• Spiagga di Topinetti:

with its black sand due to the iron in the soil. The people from the nearby villages used to work the iron extracted in this part of the isle.

• Cala Seregola:

with its red sand. This and the deserted mine buildings reveal the mine past of this area. If you want to know more about the former mine industry you can visit the Museo Mineralogico in Rio Marina.

This beaches might be fascinating but the real beaches to visit are located elsewhere. In what follows I sum up the beaches which I found most memorable, each for very different reasons

(1) Stecchi Due

Stecchi Due is one of my favourites because unlike the beaches that follow this one is not well known among tourists… in fact you could say that this is one of the beaches the people of Elba go to during the summer peak and it is probably due to the fact that it is not that easy to find, but my motto “look and you shall find” proved more than worth while. Entering a narrow passage in the bushes and going down down you find this little corner of paradise with a lot of fishes and very clear water. Do mind the current when the sea is rough. It is best to enter the water either at the right or by means of the little bay on the left, where you see the sailboat.

(2) Cavoli

The typical image of a tropical beach with white sand and crystal blue water you can find in Cavoli but be sure to set your alarm clock because if you want to find a spot you will have to get up early. Don’t think about parking next to the beach, instead I suggest you to park along the main road which connects the coast towns (then go down a very steap street which takes you down to the beach !follow the signs!).

(3) Sansone

Sansone might not be sandy but pebbly, the sea water is equally transparant. A perfect spot to go snorkling, especially around the rocks, on the right. If you didn’t have time to pack lunch you can decide to eat something in the recently constructed bar higher up.

(4) La Paolina

This beach is worth while for the small isle which is situated in its bay. Here this is no pqrkig space, the only option you have is to park along the road and if you don’t arrive early all the spots will be taken. To gain access to the beach you pass through a pine forest. Don’t forget to enjoy a refreshing spritz in the bar of this beach before leaving!

 

 

 

Another year, another island

Last year my boyfriend and I went on a one-day boat trip to Elba and we fell in love with its beaches and crystal clear water so when we had to decide where this year’s summer holidays would take us we could not think of a more suitable travel destination than this fish-shaped island:

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HOW TO GET THERE: by boat from Piombino or Livorno (but it is also possible to go by plane, landing in La Pila )

We personally booked our tickets with the ferry company Toremar 

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MOVE AROUND THE ISLAND by car

We came by car because renting a car or scooter for a week does cost. If you don’t have the possibility to come with your own car make sure to set aside some budget for this. Even if there are buslines bare in mind that they are not frequent so a car/scooter could be quite useful.

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WHERE TO STAY: Capoliveri

I strongly recommed Capoliveri because it is very well positioned and though crowded by tourists during the summer the prices in most of the restaurants and bars are lower than in the cities by the sea.

Accommodation: Airbnb

Going to Elba in August is all but cheap so if you have the chance to go in June or September you will save money and also have more space on the many beautiful beaches this island has to offer.

To save some money and have the opportunity to get insights from locals (as in from our host) we booked a room using Airbnb.

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WHERE TO EAT:

Ristorante Oasi

Here we spent our first evening in Capoliveri. Good food, very friendly maitre and rather large portions for a small price. I, personally, much enjoyed the risotto nero di seppia: it might not look very tasteful but once you taste it you will understand what I mean.

Trattoria il Giardino

We had a hard time getting into this place: you have to book days in advance and in order to have space on the roof terrace with a breathtaking view on the bay even up to a week in advance BUT it is an absolute must if you come to Capoliveri and I can reassure you you will not regret it. Prepare yourself to meet the most chatty and comic waiter in history… but no joke he knows his stuff: he explains you every dish on the menu which changes according to what catches of that very day, bought from local fishermen and prepared in a most original colourful and most importantly delicous dishes which talk for themselves:

 

Cacciucco Blues

If you like to eat various small dishes, tapas-style, you are going to like this place. Make sure you come in time because the number of tables are limited, which we didn’t know but they were so nice to create a table ex nuovo. Very romantic atmosphere!

Uscio e Bottega

The perfect spot for a typical Tuscan aperitive, a “tagliere” with local cheeses and cold cuts accompanied by a wine of your choice. Very friendly personnel and great quality for a small price!

 

and where NOT to eat: 

L’Orchidea: 

This pastery shop is very well known in Capoliveri for the great view from its terrace but, as far as I am concerned, not so much for its great service. I was quite disappointed by the pasteries which they told me to be amongst of the best of the isle: they cost double, didn’t have much taste and were served by a rather rude waitress.

Ischia, you beach!

You’re on an island… impossible not to go to the beach! I like the sea but I am not much of a sunbather so I usually only after a day of exploring a city or doing a hike. In what follows my personal TOP 3 beaches:

NUMERO 1. Lido di San Montano

bus stop: Lacco Ameno (bus lines CS-CD-1-2)

I visited Lido di San Montano on the way back from Ischia Ponte and its Castello Aragonese. Situated in a small, almost hidden bay this beach with its crystal clear water was my absolute favourite on the isle. I say “almost” because the beach belongs to the Negombo Spa. You needn’t worry about any entrance fee, though: if you continue walking past the resort and passing through a parking lot you will see that there is public access to the beach. The high trees surrounding the bay protect you from the wind while the sea only gradually becomes deep making both the temperature of the water nice and warm.

NUMERO 2. Spiaggia dei Maronti

bus stop: Maronti (Bus line 5)

I walked to this beach from Barano since the bus line 5 is not that frequent. It is quite a walk but (all in descent and) the last kilometres proved more than rewarding due to the panoramic view

                from this resting area:

It is a clean sandy beach with just the right breeze. Since it is big you should not have problems finding a spot.

NUMERO 3. Spiaggia di Citara

bus stop: Citara (bus lines 2-21-22-23-24)

Lovers of deep waters and bigger waves should go to Spiaggia di Citara. Although many spoke highly of this beach I didn’t find it that special, except for the fact that the depth of the sea water shifts rapidly from 0,3cm to 1,5 metres (making it nice to really swim but also tricky to get in and out of the water).

L’isola verde: Ischia

Ever since I visited Capri five years ago I wanted to see to Ischia -pronounced by the locals as “Ishhhkja”- and last June I finally went to the biggest island in the Baia di Napoli.

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HOW TO GET THERE: by boat from Naples

for the time table and prices take a look at

http://www.directferries.ie/

It might take 30 min more but I preferred to take the traghetto (saving 15 euros to spend on a nice meal).

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MOVE AROUND THE ISLAND by bus

the time table (which is not always that accurate) you can find by clicking on the following link

http://www.ischia.it/en/how-to-get-ischia/bus-timetables-and-routes

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WHERE TO STAY: Forio

I picked Forio as a starting point for my holiday in Ischia since it is not so expensive as some of the other coastal city (like Sant’Angelo and Ischia Ponte) but nonetheless very charming. Moreover the rest of the island is easy to reach by bus from the city centre.

Accommodation: Ring Hostel (www.ringhostel.com)

I have to say that accommodation in Ischia is all but cheap, certainly when you are on your own so this time I choose to stay in a hostel. Given that I went in June (before the beginning of the high season) I was lucky to have a room for myself. Separate double rooms are, however, possible thus making this hostel interesting for couples on a tight budget! The breakfast might be rather limited (and DIY) but is nice to know that you can put some food in the small fridge in the breakfast area (if necessary). Plus the place has a roof terrace.

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WHERE TO EAT:

I made a list of my favourite places to eat in Forìo:

Restaurant La Bella Napoli (Via Marina, Forìo)

If you are looking for a nice place for dinner in the city centre La Bella Napoli is worth considering. Even though most people (including me the first time I went) take pizza it is far more than a

pizzeria. The pizza is good, especially the one with mozzarella di bufala,

yet what you should really order is the starter with seafood. Given that the size of the portion people can easily eat for two with just one

Restaurant La Casareccia (Via Baiola 269, Forìo)

You will need the car to get to this restaurant but I can reassure you that it is absolutely worthwhile. Given I went in early summertime I had the chance to eat also outside, on the nice big pergola of this restaurant. When I travel I do not only want to see the area but taste it. Ischia might be an island and known for its fish dishes yet another very typical main dish is Coniglio all’Ischitana. I ate this oven cooked rabbit, served with a tomato-wine sauce with hits of rosemary and parsley, accompanied by just the right amount of tasty bread to “fare la scarpetta” (which is an Italian expression used to refer to the fact that you use your bread to clean your plate from any traces of food/sauce). A real must for the culinary traveller!

Bakery Nonno Franchino (Via Cristoforo Colombo, Forìo)

The perfect place to get some pizzette or focaccia to carry with you on a day trip. If you really want to try something typical take the rotolo with friarelli and salsiccia (typical green spinach-like vegetable from this region and sausage). Also nice for a late-night snack… I easily get hungry ;p.